Sunday, May 17, 2009

Better and better

Okay so it wasn't a dream. This new area is actually even better than I had initially hoped. It's taylor made for bouldering. It seems like everytime you walk up to a face hoping to climb a line the holds are laid out perfectly. There is a really good mixture of easy stuff, moderates and desperate looking projects that will keep climber around st.john's busy for years to come.

One of the sub areas we've spent the most time on so far we've dubbed the pump house. Its a short overhanging ceiling where we've put up around 10 problems so far. All very moderate with low top outs and safe landings. The toughest line being maybe v4 at the hardest.

Trevor harris climbing at the pump house.


But the pump house is just the tip of the iceberg. Right around the corner from it is a section of rock with where a large ceiling leads to a high vertical face where really interesting features give a lot of potential for hard lines.

One of the nicest lines we've done so far starts underneath a ceiling on a perfect two handed jug,  comes out through an undercling to the face where you have to swing your heel around to get out from underneath the ceiling and then battle your way up a really interesting bulge feature.

Here's a series of us working out the moves on "Cullam Bruce-Lockhart" which goes at probably around v6.









One of the most aesthetic pieces of rock we've found is a boulder set apart from the group of boulders huddled under the nearby cliff. We've names this solitary boulder the lone wolf and we expected it to be nice to look at but not offer much in the climbing department but were pleasantly surprised to discover that it actually held problems with deceivingly tricky and interesting sequences.







All pictures courtesy of Beth Spencer.

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